Short version: It was awesome!
We just returned from a week at Disney World. My feet still hurt. I’m tired. But wow, was it worth it. What a great trip!
The Kids. The girls were at a really good age for it. At 6 and 8, they were old enough to handle all the walking, the long days and late nights, but young enough to enjoy the characters and get excited by the magic of the place. We had remarkably few episodes of fighting, pouting or annoying behavior.
The Weather. Despite my fears that we would get rained on the entire week, the weather was really nice. We only got rain on our next to last morning there. Most of it was on-and-off light misting rain, with an hour or less of actual get-you-really-wet rain. Our ponchos kept everything dry but our feet, and we spent most of that 45 minutes to an hour on the monorail then a bus going from one park to another. ADDED: While I can’t complain, since it didn’t rain, it was very humid. My hair felt all wrong the whole week and was really frizzed out.
The Timing. We picked a good week to go. I had read that crowds really fall off after Labor Day as kids head back to school, and that turned out to be the case for us. The heaviest crowds we experienced were on the evening of Sunday, August 31 (the day we arrived) in the Magic Kingdom and the evening of Tuesday, September 2 at Disney Hollywood Studios. Both of those times, I would still say the crowds were only moderate, not heavy. The rest of the time, regardless of what park we visited, crowds were very light. We rarely had to stand in line for a ride for more than 5-10 minutes, and literally walked on with no wait to many rides. It was great. I can’t imagine going at a time when it is more crowded now that I’ve experienced it this way.
The Resort. We stayed at Wilderness Lodge. It is modeled after Old Faithful Lodge in Yellowstone National Park (a fact which automatically makes people like me, who watched Yogi Bear in my youth, think of it as being in Jellystone). Check out this photo tour – the rooms are pretty standard but the architecture, the lobby and the grounds are pretty amazing. One cool thing about this resort is that they offer boat service across the lake to and from Magic Kingdom.
The World. Despite having seen the map and knowing that the place was big, I was not prepared for how huge Disney World is (apparently, the equivalent of 40 square miles, or twice the size of Manhattan island). Even during a relatively slow time, it took us half an hour or more to get from our resort (which is near the Magic Kingdom) via bus to Animal Kingdom. This was due in part to stopping at two other resorts first. But even taking the bus directly from Animal Kingdom to the Ticket and Transportation Center took a solid 15-20 minutes, and we still had to ride the monorail for another several minutes to get to the Magic Kingdom. I think the bus from our resort direct to Epcot was 20+ minutes.
The Parks. I can’t decide which park is my favorite.
I loved Magic Kingdom, and I think that was probably the overall family favorite. I particularly love the look of Tomorrowland and Fantasyland. The size of the park is pretty manageable, and despite the number of rides and shows, if it isn’t too crowded you can realistically cover everything in a couple of days. This is the park we spent the most time in, so I was glad our resort was nearby. The final night we were there was the first night of Mickey’s Not So Scary Halloween Party. We had to purchase special tickets, and I was told they only sell tickets up to one-third the capacity of the park. They stay open til midnight, decorate the place for Halloween, set up trick-or-treat stations around the park, and do a Halloween-themed parade and fireworks. They also do a show in front of the castle starring some major Disney villains (Maleficent, Cruella de Ville, the Queen from Alice in Wonderland, Captain Hook, etc).
I wish we had had more time to linger in Epcot. We spent the equivalent of a full day there but didn’t get to everything. I wanted more time to browse through World Showcase and Innoventions. We went through two of the four Innoventions pavilions, which are sort of hands-on science museums. Lots to do and look at, I think if you have kids you could spend most of a day just in those four buildings. Plus there are the other Future World pavilions. We did everything in the Land Pavilion (Soarin’ is a great attraction!) but didn’t have time to explore everything available in the Seas Pavilion, or the pavilions with Test Track and Mission Space. We didn’t even go into the energy-themed pavilion. The girls really loved Spaceship Earth and wanted to do it again but we just couldn’t get to it. I was pretty underwhelmed with their evening fireworks/water extravaganza IllumiNations, but otherwise I really enjoyed the park. The Japan pavilion included an exhibit of tin toys which was very cool, I’ll post photos at some point.
Animal Kingdom is another one that really calls for a slower pace and time to explore. The Tree of Life alone is worth lingering over for awhile, just to check out the massiveness of it and try to identify the animals carved into it. It is such a contrast with the other three parks, with the focus on nature, the vegetation and animals. There are some good rides – Expedition Everest might be my favorite rollercoaster in all of Disney World – but you really have to approach Animal Kingdom as a zoo more than a theme park.
Disney Hollywood Studios is okay, but with a couple of exceptions, it didn’t do much for me. It is small, which is good since you don’t have to walk as much to see everything but bad because it takes fewer people for it to get crowded than in the other parks. We didn’t see any of the stunt shows or do the backlot tour since we spent less time here than in the other parks. The highlights are the two major rides (Rock-n-Rollercoaster and Tower of Terror) and Fantasmic, a water and lights extravaganza that was the best show we saw the entire week. I also enjoyed “One Man’s Dream”, a walk-through tour highlighting the life and work of Walt Disney. They had what appeared to be reproductions of vintage Disney posters throughout the exhibit – very cool, I took pictures and will post them at some point.
The Food. We got a great deal on Disney’s deluxe dining package. They ran a special, offering the basic dining plan for free to people staying in a Disney resort for three or more nights between certain dates. But the basic plan is a pain – you get one table service meal, one counter service meal and one snack per day per person. I didn’t want to have to keep up with table service versus counter service meals. So I got the deluxe plan, which is three meals (whether table or counter service) and two snacks per day per person. Because of the special they were running, I only had to pay the difference between the basic and the deluxe plans. I think it amounted to about $80 per day for all four of us. So the price was definitely right. We arrived after lunchtime on our first day, and departed before lunch on our final day, so we had meals we didn’t use even after accounting for a character breakfast and a dinner that each counted for two meals per person. I think we had 10 meals and 22 snacks that we didn’t use. Still, feeding all of us for about $80 a day on vacation was a huge bargain.
The food at Disney World is okay, not great but not bad, although some places we ate were surprisingly good. The Hollywood Brown Derby at Disney Studios (which counted for two meals per person) was quite good – their mascarpone polenta, which I had with slices of duck breast and venison sausage, was yummy. Les Chefs de France in Epcot was pretty good too. The lunch buffet at the Crystal Palace in Magic Kingdom had really good prime rib, pulled pork and a couple of hot pasta dishes that were better than your average midrange buffet fare. Mike thought the fish and chips at the Rose and Crown at Epcot’s England pavilion was really good, but I thought it was just so-so. I was surprised that I liked the Mickey-shaped waffles so much (we had them both at Chef Mickey’s breakfast buffet at the Contemporary resort as well as in the Wilderness Lodge’s Whispering Canyon Cafe). I was also surprised that the oatmeal in our lodge’s Roaring Fork counter service restaurant was so good. My favorite snack was the pineapple Dole Whip (soft serve ice cream) at Aloha in Adventureland (in Magic Kingdom). ADDED: I did not expect so many relatively healthy choices, both for adults and on the kids’ menus. The choices for kids are limited and do include standards like mac-n-cheese and chicken strips, but they also have such items as raw carrots and celery sticks, garden salad, chicken noodle soup, steamed broccoli and fresh fruit. Most counter service places seemed to have fresh fruit available as a snack choice. You can avoid junk food if you really want to.
The Attractions. There are a few thrill rides throughout the four parks that are fun – I liked Space Mountain and Expedition Everest the best. Rock N’ Roller Coaster is also pretty darned fun (although visually a bit lame), as is the Twilight Zone-themed Tower of Terror. But what Disney does best is tell a story. Some of my favorite rides are the ones where you coast slowly along (in a boat or on a track) and look at things or watch a story unfold. I love Its A Small World (I even like the song), Haunted Mansion, Splash Mountain (which does have a big drop toward the end but is mostly a slow float) and Peter Pan’s Flight. Spaceship Earth is fantastic. The shows are also alot of fun. Of all the ones we saw, the only complete disappointment was Journey Into Narnia: Prince Caspian at Disney Studios, which was nothing more than a commercial for the movie (and they make you stand the entire time). I was also a bit disappointed with the Hall Of Presidents in Magic Kingdom, mostly because it isn’t what I remember from seeing it as a kid, and only two of the animatronic presidents talk – Lincoln and George W Bush. (Although I was amused by my 6 year old, who kept asking whether George W Bush was a bad guy.) Festival Of The Lion King and Its Tough To Be A Bug at Animal Kingdom were both excellent, as was Monsters Inc Laugh Floor in Magic Kingdom.
The Planning. I highly recommend the annually-updated The Unofficial Guide To Disney World. It was invaluable in planning our trip. I even spent an extra $7.95 to access the additional touring plans on their website. Since the crowds were so light, we didn’t have to stick to the touring plans so religiously, but just knowing some of the rationale behind their touring strategies was helpful in deciding what to do when. The reviews of the attractions were helpful, and if I hadn’t learned about the need to reserve table-service and character meals far in advance, our dining experience would have been alot less interesting. There is lots of good online information about Disney World, but this book was by far the best resource I found.
The End. Disney World is great fun, but to maximize it – wait til your kids are early to mid elementary school, read The Unofficial Guide before you make plans, go for several days during an off-peak time when they offer a meal plan deal. Personally, I think staying at a Disney resort enhances the experience. It also allows you to use the free Magical Express shuttle service to and from the airport, which means you don’t have to rent a car.
ADDED: Photos are here and here.